Personally I like the first one but I could see your truck rocking the “City Chevy” livery from Days of thunder!”

This is going to be a long read brother but my best advice for you. Depending on mileage and current condition of your car I would probably start by going over all the regular wear items suspension wise und upgrading those to suit your needs for daily/track use. After that I would go over the brakes. Those are going to help improve time/lap consistency, heat management for brakes, and driver confidence as you get familiar with the way your car handles on a track. Starting with bolt on power adders can often lead to brake fade and slower cornering speed. While extra horsepower sounds appealing, a stock car driven hard on a road course will quickly reveal that its factory stopping power and standard suspension are the weak links. Track driving puts immense thermal stress on a vehicle, and adding power before upgrading the chassis drastically accelerates component failure. Stock brake pads and fluid are designed for street use and will boil or glaze after a few hot laps. Upgrading to track oriented pads/fluid and upgrading brake lines will help keep braking power consistent. More power puts extra strain on factory axles, transmissions, and differentials. Upgrading the suspension helps transfer weight smoothly, reducing violent shock loads on your drivetrain. A car's track speed is ultimately limited by the size and quality of its tire contact patches, which suspension components are designed to optimize. Upgraded coilovers, stiffer sway bars, and adjustable camber plates keep the tires flat against the road/tarmac during hard cornering. Stiffer track suspension minimizes body roll, pitch, and dive. This stabilization keeps the car's weight distributed more evenly across all four tires. Replacing soft, rubber factory bushings with polyurethane or spherical bearings eliminates deflection, giving you immediate steering response. Tires and wheels also make a huge impact. Once all those things are addressed then I would do supporting mods like cooling mods. Upgraded radiator and adding an oil cooler. Then after those things are taken care you can get into the fun stuff and performance mods come into play. Depending on how much money you have to play with at this point would dictate the order in which I made those upgrades. Being budget conscious I’d start with exhaust and then intake. Adding a cat back first and then just collecting parts that will require a retune so I can do them at once and tune once vs adding a part here and there and tuning multiple times. If you made it this far I hope this advice can be of some help. Do some research of your own and you’ll find an approach that will suit your needs best!

$13,000 for the whole car what are you trying to paint it out of gold?

That’s yer throwout bearing there bud - at least from what it sounds like.

370z, the wifey has a 350z. Plus I used to work on Z’s a lot when I was way younger so can use all the knowledge I know and turn it into a drift car or maybe a show car

I remember when I was first getting started working on my car and I was crunching numbers, i noted how expensive the build would take. In comes my friend who had a broken down 330i telling me he had parts for me and I could take what I needed. This man casually gave me a k&n cold air intake, rear trunk handle, shadowline trim, brand new BMW emblems, and so much more. I appreciate what he's given me, he's a great man, and whenever I work on my car, I always remember what he's given me. without him, I wouldn't have gotten this far with my project!

Wiring for me

If you haven’t followed the YouTuber tanner (aka) Smeedia for most of subie need I would highly suggest it I’m good friends with him as well

Being someone who's worked with DC electrical since I was little, I'm actually the opposite of y'all. Working on stereo's and any electrical component is actually my favorite part of working on cars. I love being able to make things work that didn't or you didn't think you could previously, hiding wires properly so it looks like it belongs, etc. Don't get me wrong I love working on engines as well, nothing beats a good wrenching session and enjoying the performance you gained on the road. But if I've got my multi-meter and crimpers out, I'm ready to go.

My least favorite is body work, I never learned it and it's not my thing, and I get upset when I have to go maintenance. If I have to fix or replace something and there's no opportunity to upgrade or make it better in the process lol. I'll end up putting if off (if I can safely) for far too long 😆

Woohoo!! Let’s go! Time to put in some work 🙌🏼

I have a few of these. On the genesis, i have 1 differential bolt that shears if i launch the car, or accellerate a lil too hard. The bolt is a grade 12.8 steel, 10mm shank.

The 2nd is my current issue, i was removing studs on my rx7's intake. And as we all know, thats a no no for flames area. I was even being gentle with the drill bit, that broke off in the last stud i was extracting! So now...waiting on an aftermarket one to arrive, so i can finally drive that beautiful machine, and finish tuning her on e85.

I mentioned this previously but I've made a little more progress with it. I'm currently working on a replacement for the stock "snorkel" on my Corolla Hatchback. It makes no sense to have a "cold air intake" that collects most of it's air from directly in front of the motor. So I'm rerouting it ahead of the radiator into the same location that the GR Corolla intake is at. I'm currently waiting on parts for version 2 which will use a 90° bend and a 60° bend and eliminate the reducing coupler. It'll also have at least one mounting tab welded in place to use one of the factory bolt holes for the old snorkel. Last step will be deciding if I'm going to spend the money on a Tanabe "cooling plate" for the GR Corolla to dress the area up and finish it, or if I'm just going to find an OEM GR cover to replace my non-GR cover that no longer fits.